MATADOR eXtreme

After successfully summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro in some of the worst weather conditions seen on the mountain in 80 years, Mat, Dan, and Roland now turn their attention to the relatively unknown Four Girls Mountains, located near the town of Rilong in the Sichuan Province of China. It is said that the Four Girls Mountains are the Goddess of the Mountains in South-Western China. The highest peak in this area is Mount Fourth Girl (6250m), a knife edged rock peak which has three peaks on its Southern Ridge. These are called Third Girl (5355m), Second Girl (5276m), and First Girl (5025m). The MATADOR eXtreme Team will attempt to climb the Third Girl, in preparation for a future assault on the Fourth Girl.

The Chinese and Tibetans have different names and stories regarding the Four Girls Mountains. For the Chinese, these mountains are the incarnation of four sisters who saved a Panda, which started the local legend. The general Chinese public refers to the Four Girls Mountains as Siguniangshan, Fourth Girl as Siguniang, Third Girl as Sanguniang, Second Girl as Erguniang, and First Girl as Daguniang.

Even the easiest routes here are very difficult climbs. In the past, very few climbers have attempted these peaks. Usually it has been one party or less every year. However, recently, there has been an increase in tourism in this area and a corresponding increase in climber’s attempts on these peaks. The relatively easy access (compared to Himalayan expeditions), exciting combination of rock, ice, and snow climbing, as well as the spectacular scenery with Alpine plants in bloom, make this steep and complicated landform of glacial origin a climber’s dream.

We will be providing dispatches on the MATADOR eXtreme Team’s progress over the coming weeks so please be sure to visit the MATADOR web-site on a regular basis. We wish Mat, Dan, and Roland the best of luck!

Summit History

July 1981: Seven Japanese make first ascent via the South-East Ridge.
July 1992: Another seven Japanese make ascent via the South-Face and West Ridge.
October 1994: Charlie Fowler made ascent via the South-Face and the South-East Ridge
April 2002: Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden make ascent via the North-West face.
November 2004: Two American and four Chinese make ascent via the South-Face and the South-East Ridge.

Location	Xiaojin County of the Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province, China.
Coordinates	Around 31 degrees of north latitude, 103 degrees of east longitude.
Climate and Weather	Four seasons change regularly at Mt. Four Girls (Siguniangshan),the difference of temperature is great, it goes to above 20C in summer and lower than -10C in winter. Averagely, the temperature comes to 11.7C.Spring ,summer and fall are all good seasons for travel in this area.
First Ascent	1981.